Você é meu Broder! - The adventure continues in Salvador, Bahia!

[Kenny Kozol]

Kenny e Mestre Martinho da Cuíca

It´s hard to describe in words the wonder of Bahia. There is music everywhere, people walk and talk with a certain mellow swing that is like no other, the history within the walls of the oldest buildings in the oldest city in Brazil and the traditions of the people run deep. Today at a self-serve restaurant, I saw an ordinary looking guy beat out a rhythm on his plate as he walked a couple steps to get his food - I´ve seen people make rhythms on the sides of a building while waiting for the bus, on a matchbook while walking to the store, and the other day I caught my teacher getting funky on his sunglasses while waiting for me. Young and old alike dance the moment they hear music coming from a store or bar without loosing a beat in their path to wherever they are going. There are samba bands made up of young boys and girls that have hundreds of complex arrangements. There is an air of happyness and joy marked by warm smiles and a slow pace in people´s talk and stride.

I was even more taken by the beauty of the colonial architecture and the overwhelming ocean this time around than on my last visit here one year ago. Constant activity and classes have kept me out of the internet and away from the blog, though I could write for hours about my experience. That said, much better to live it! This post will be photos and a few words about the last week here in Salvador, Bahia. Tonight I´m off on a 7 hour bus ride to my friend´s Cabello and Tisza´s dance, drum and copoeira workshop further south in the state of Bahia 40 miles north of the city of Ilhéus. I´ll spend a week or so in their Atlantic rainforest location and then slowly make my way back to Salvador.

Again, I have continued to experience many incredible signs on my journey. When I arrived here a week ago, I stepped off the bus and the first person I ran into was Bahian woman I played drums with and took a few dance classes from last year - she said our guardian angels aligned, and I too believe that. I returned to stay at the great cultural center and hostel ``Centro Cultural do Obispo´´ to be warmly greeted by people who were happily surprised to see me return a year later. I reconnected with my good friend Alisson and my two percussion teachers Macambira and Giba, and have made new friends and new teachers. I came here determined to learn how to play the cuíca - a peculiar Brazilian instrument. Macambira, who I study drums with every day, introduced me to the old master here Martinho da Cuíca and we´ve developed a great friendship in addition to my apprenticeship on the instrument. As we walk the city streets, we talk about history, slavery in Brazil and life as he points out monuments and buildings and tells me about them, ``That´s the oldest school of medicine in Brazil.´´, ``That´s the first colonial palace in Brazil.´´ Our lessons consist hanging out for hours and playing for another three or so straight. He gave me a quick explaination of about a minute and the rest of my lessons have been all playing by ear and observing his moves. This is the way a child learns and the way things are often taught here. I find this natural way to teach and learn to be the best form of education. Martinho laughs encouragingly when I hit it right and says, ``você e inteligente,´´ with a big smile. We can´t walk the streets for 5 minutes without at least one person saying, ``Mestre,´´ or ``Você é Martinho da Cuica,´´ or someone simply giving him a thumbs up and saying ``cuíca´´ with a smile of appreciation and respect. When I go someplace with him, people treat me differently - and he introduces me to others saying , ``he´s our friend.´´ I feel grateful to have this contact with older people who have a deep understanding of things and wisdom that comes with experience. This is something I have been fortunate to have had a number of times with older musicians throughout my life. My good friend Bishop, who played with James Taylor and Carol King, took me under his wing when I was in college. José Luís Martínez, founder of the Cuban group Los Van Van did the same in more recent years and now Mestre Martinho da Cuíca is a new friend who will certainly teach me a lot about life and music.

I have also been dancing, studying samba with a good new friend Luciano, who, though younger than me, is also a great teacher. I feel my hips loosinging up, I finally heard the rhythm of the pandeiro (small Brazilian drum that I play) in the steps of the dance, and have even gotten a few smiles from Brazilians as they say, ``Opa, you´re sambando!´´

As for friends, there is no shortage of good people and good conversation on the street and at Obispo, but most of my time has been spent with Alisson, Luciano, Martinho, and Macambira. Alisson, who is my closest buddy here is leaving for Sweden in the near future as he is going to have a baby with a Sweedish girl. I asked him when the baby will be born and I was taken back by another sign as he said ``December 18th,´´ - my birthday. I told him that if his baby is born that day he or she will be exactly 35 years younger than me - 35 years later, now that made me think.

``Você é meu Broder!´´(You´re my brother) is something I´ve been fortunate to hear with all sincerity a number of times from good people since arriving in Bahia a week ago. The fact that the word ``brother´´ has been taken from the English language and put into use here makes my proud. My Venezuelan friends also use this word and it makes me smile as I think it is one of the most beautiful words we have (along with sister, of course). I too use this word regularly in English to relate to friends and others that I encounter in my daily life. Though there are many other sides to Bahia, there is a lot of fraternity here.

Allison, Luciano and Kenny chillin´at Obispo

Kenny e Alisson fazendo um som

Kenny with teacher and friend Macambira (center) and the band Na Cor after rehearsal together

Mercado Modelo - former slave market

All girl samba group in the streets of the Pelorinho

Kenny, Luciano, Mestre Martinho da Cuica and Alisson jammin´ out!

Terreiro de Jesus - Pelorinho

Kenny e Martinho da Cuica no Terreiro de Jesus - Pelorinho

Samba dance class with Luciano

Kenny and Lazaro hangin´ at Obispo

Dinner with the gang at Obispo

[Richard Grudzinski]

Nice pics, love the blog. What a great experience! Que pasa bien.

[Joel Fendelman]

Kenny,

I love seeing the pictures, it reminds me of my time there. It is beautiful the relationships you seem to be having especially with the mestre. Have you met up with Audenora yet? tell her hi for me. Man Bispo rocks. Continue your journey man, say hello to Tiza and Cabello for me. cheers

[josh-wah]

Kenny, looks like you are having a blast! Love the stories. Can't wait for the next chapter.

[Rhiannon Murphy]

Hermanito, Que belleza. I can't express how the journey of another inspires the journey within ourselves. Gracias por tu luz, your brotherhood, and love. I miss you and continue to send lots of light and love on your journey. Next stop for me is back to Mexico and Cuba. One place i always wanted to go. INDIA! HERE I COME!
love you!-RHi